Contagion?

[TOM4CWB]

Reman on that thing will shock you... depending how deep you go 30K in parts is small potatoes nowadays. That's if you can get the parts.

If you're going to fix piece meal, I'd recommend going to someone like "western diesel", and replacing just the rollers, provided your core is still in decent shape. Make sure the oil holes line up and you can press them in and out for about $20 per, rather than getting reman followers from cat for $300.

Pistons and rings I go with nothing but OEM.

That said, once you're into replacing rings, you may as well go with full packs, and then next thing you know you're doing mains, and top end. Before you know it the christmas gift budget is thoroughly drained!

Sad that it is in a 1990 Pete… rebuilt everything but
Probably not smart to do it again… 2nd total rebuild with less than 2000hrs… seems like time is as much of a problem as miles!

Have a spare built so not the end of the world

Cheers

[Braveheart]

Sad that it is in a 1990 Pete… rebuilt everything but
Probably not smart to do it again… 2nd total rebuild with less than 2000hrs… seems like time is as much of a problem as miles!

Have a spare built so not the end of the world

Cheers

A pre emissions and 3406e to boot? Definitely rebuild. It's becoming a Unicorn.

[farming101]

By all accounts a very good engine. A complete diagnosis in order.

[TOM4CWB]

By all accounts a very good engine. A complete diagnosis in order.

Brought the old Pete home today... will tear the head off ourselves and put back together since we have a good shop and good people that know this engine to build it back.

Less than 2000 hrs since complete rebuild, [we don't put many hrs per year on trucks] so put a new piston liner kit in the bad hole [found out they just put a crown and rings and no liner when it dropped a valve just after the complete rebuild] looks like the 'recon c15 head and cam' installed back then were short on the 're' part and big on the 'con' portion... so we can magniflux /crackcheck the c15 head and get a good cam in it this time!

The big time shop repair rates can kill our used iron in a hurry, but older hardware can be fixed much easier by us... 'warranty' on it is a bad joke no matter who fixes these older units... unless ... we simply don't put near enough hrs per year on to justify the 'new cost' that must be paid to have warranty fix problems.

No coolant or fuel in the oil... so a good check over on the low hour bearings should assure a 'build back better' engine ourselves!

Sure reminds us that on those 1500-4000 hr diesel engines [trany/diff/hyd systems too]... DO OIL ANALYSIS REGULARLY... along with good oil and air system checks for dust contamination of intake air especially... keep up DCA in the coolant [easy to do with test kits]... and run good fuel conditioner RE: keep fuel fresh [not over 1.5yrs old as 'biofuel additives make for Contagion'] with water checks/removal of any condensation in the bottom of diesel fuel tanks.

Winter time with much less grain to haul... so fix the old iron in the shop since we don't have to dry grain all winter long this year!!! [Big Blessing and much lower costs!]

A good maintenance program makes for long life and fewer surprises... less Contagion!

Cheers!

P.S. the Contagion at CRA ls hard to miss as the pandemic has slowed down everything; but needed tax book keeping adjustments [also day long on hold CRA answering phone enquires/journeys to have them end saying 'no authority to do changes like that] ... and sped up the collections consultants and automatic tax return adjustments to create new taxes payable...

[helmsdale]

I'd NEVER take a recon'd head from cat...

When I rebuild my BXS c15 i sent my head into "action parts" in medicine hat and it had roughly 10K hours on it. Exact words from the shop foreman were: "are your air filters intact? Because this is the worst head I've ever seen in 35 years!" Valve guides, and stems looked like they had 40K hours on them. I'm guessing they had 30K on them when they "re-man'd" it and they were close enough to "in-spec" that they called it good. Head was warped, and wore out, but it wasn't cracked, so we planed it down and completely rebuilt it. When trying to roll the engine over for a top end set now, it's so tight you can hardly get it to roll over whichever piston is on the compression stroke!

Make sure to check your liner protrusion! Ideally you want those baby's to be within .001" of each other and certainly on the "high" side of spec. Also make darned sure your deck height is within .002-.003" or it should be pulled as well. This is the least likely, but if the deck is warped you're never going to get where you want to. I know it seems anal to talk in 2 or 3 thousandths, but trust me, it matters!

If deck is true, head is true, and liner protrusion is set, that thing will last for years!

On the cam, when you pull it so long as any scores aren't "draggy" when you pull your fingernail across it, they're good to go. Cam bearings are not hard, you just need a puller to drag them from front to back.

If you need anything PM me. I'm pretty sure 3406E's cross over on alot of fronts with my C15, and I can send you what I've got for manuals.

Cheers.

[TOM4CWB]

I'd NEVER take a recon'd head from cat...

When I rebuild my BXS c15 i sent my head into "action parts" in medicine hat and it had roughly 10K hours on it. Exact words from the shop foreman were: "are your air filters intact? Because this is the worst head I've ever seen in 35 years!" Valve guides, and stems looked like they had 40K hours on them. I'm guessing they had 30K on them when they "re-man'd" it and they were close enough to "in-spec" that they called it good. Head was warped, and wore out, but it wasn't cracked, so we planed it down and completely rebuilt it. When trying to roll the engine over for a top end set now, it's so tight you can hardly get it to roll over whichever piston is on the compression stroke!

Make sure to check your liner protrusion! Ideally you want those baby's to be within .001" of each other and certainly on the "high" side of spec. Also make darned sure your deck height is within .002-.003" or it should be pulled as well. This is the least likely, but if the deck is warped you're never going to get where you want to. I know it seems anal to talk in 2 or 3 thousandths, but trust me, it matters!

If deck is true, head is true, and liner protrusion is set, that thing will last for years!

On the cam, when you pull it so long as any scores aren't "draggy" when you pull your fingernail across it, they're good to go. Cam bearings are not hard, you just need a puller to drag them from front to back.

If you need anything PM me. I'm pretty sure 3406E's cross over on alot of fronts with my C15, and I can send you what I've got for manuals.

Cheers.

Thx! A good mechanic is important to rebuild the engine properly…(Jay) he said the same things about the liner protrusion and head being square as you have which is reassuring!

We will take the time and do it right.

Cheers