Test Water Bowls Test

Beef Production


Water Bowls

Nov 10, 2017 | 11:30 1 Looking to put a new water bowl in this weekend before it gets too late.
Any recommendations or tips on type of bowl or installing the service.
What is the bets diameter pipe to place over the vertical portion of the water line?
I will be connecting to the current water line. Will need to put in electrical service, pad etc.
Any tips would be quite helpful. Thanks. Reply With Quote
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  • DaneG's Avatar Nov 10, 2017 | 12:32 2 All my water lines have a self regulating heat tape from the ground surface down about 8ft they are the type that are installed inside the water pipe a little pricey but virtually trouble free, coop usually stocks them the wire sells by the foot then there is a grommet fitting tee kit to seal the wire inside the pipe. Reply With Quote
    Nov 10, 2017 | 16:36 3 Have a Ritchie Thrifty King in use and another one to install...quite like them....150 watt heater and with the right number of head, would likely not even need that.
    https://ritchiefount.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/thriftyking1216.pdf Reply With Quote
    Nov 10, 2017 | 19:46 4 We install the heat tape on a sleeve pipe now - if you are running 1" supply pipe, run a 1.25" pipe on the outside with the heat tape on it then if there is ever a problem you can just pull the sleeve off to replace the heat tape. We usually put these pipes inside a 4" or 5" riser pipe. Have quit using the self regulating heat tapes after too many issues with thermostats. Now use the newer constant heat ones as they use so little power. Better safe than sorry in this climate! Reply With Quote
    Nov 11, 2017 | 09:18 5 Have not used heat tape...but use a 6 to 8 inch riser....on the occasional issue, have used a cheap hair dryer to blow heat down.....once had to reactivate a waterer that wasn't used an dhad been shut down...this would be about March....used a cattle show blower and put the hose down at the bottom....worked well. Reply With Quote
    Nov 11, 2017 | 15:48 6 Use 9” culverts for risers and 7” casing. Hang either a heat lamp or 100 watt bulb in bowl such that it is over the line. Have little trouble with freezing. Most trouble comes from on top when a nasty wind freezes the tray. Keep a tarp around to cover the bowl and in a couple hours everything is thawed. Biggest mistake we along with everyone else made was using 4” risers. Absolutely hateful. Can’t pump it out if it fills with water.

    Anyway. We’ve had good luck with the concrete drinkers. Have an old Peterson and a newer cowcrete. Cowcrete better valve setup and heater. Metal drinkers had Richies which lasted forever but eventually rusted. Good bowl but now plastic and pricey. Maybe plastic is alright. Dabbled with some canarms and kinda tore on them. Have a couple smaller ones and although a little chinsy they never freeze or give much trouble. I like the lift top for servicing. Larger ones not as solid as the little guys. Bought a used Edwards for the goats and much like a canarm but definitely heavier. Far as I’m concerned any of these drinkers will suffice but what makes or breaks them are the valve setups and tops. If it looks light at the store guaranteed bossy will turn it into scrap metal. If it’s only for a few head the lighter ones will be fine.

    Far as a pad. It should be durable enough you can move it if need be. The ground can and will settle so you need to be able to pick it up to level. Another thing a good clay mound allows water to drain away and you don’t get a soup hole.
    Last edited by WiltonRanch; Nov 11, 2017 at 15:53. Reason: More info
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    Nov 11, 2017 | 17:33 7 Just checked my Thrifty King this afternoon....due to discussion.....have had pretty much -20 for a week or 2 during night...about -10 for day.....and no heater in the waterer and have no animals in that corral....no ice at all... Reply With Quote
    Nov 11, 2017 | 22:11 8
    Quote Originally Posted by WiltonRanch View Post
    Most trouble comes from on top when a nasty wind freezes the tray. Keep a tarp around to cover the bowl and in a couple hours everything is thawed....
    Something I've done with all the old Canarm/UFA/Ritchie waterers we've taken over is build a box around them. Nothing fancy just 2x6 lumber with some extra insulation between it and the waterer then clad the whole thing with tin. Then build a lid from 2x6, insulated on the underside. If it's below about -10C I put the lids on late afternoon and take them off in the morning. Saves a heck of a lot of power, prevents freeze ups and the cattle have plenty time to drink during the day. Reply With Quote
    Nov 18, 2017 | 16:41 9 Weaned calves today, put calves in a pen with the Ritchie Thrifty King waterer....nothing in pen for a month, most nights for the last 2-3 weeks have been -20 or close to, nothing above -5 for awhile, no heater in waterer, and still good.....I am impressed. Right number of cattle in pen, likely would not need heater all winter.....may have to break loose the floating disc Reply With Quote
    Jul 22, 2021 | 04:59 10 hi))) Reply With Quote
    Jul 22, 2021 | 08:40 11 The old pipes burst and spewed water everywhere. I had to save the lines from collapsing and replace them with new ones. However, I forgot to update my tub schedule between rebuilding my sink and finding suitable replacement pipes. So, every morning as I stepped into my tub, I noticed that an inch or two below the surface of the water are bubbles. Anyway, I contacted a https://www.plumbersingapore.org/ cheap plumber in Singapore that came and resolved all the problems regarding the pipes. I am very delighted with his work, and honestly, it is tough to find a suitable expert.
    Last edited by Heavilyass; Jul 26, 2021 at 02:44.
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    Aug 2, 2021 | 16:11 12 Admin??? Reply With Quote
    Blaithin's Avatar Aug 3, 2021 | 09:56 13 Need a report function on this forum. Reply With Quote
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