Test Macdon M150 Light issues. Test

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Macdon M150 Light issues.

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Oct 4, 2015 | 17:59 1 On this swather(08 first production year) we are having light issues. We don't do alot of night swathing so it hasn't driven us completely nuts yet but...(only about 600 hrs on the machine)

When working at night, with all the lights on, a circuit breaker will trip.

The newer models have a heavier circuit breaker in place for the road lights(30 instead of 20 amp) and two heavier maxi fuses(larger fuses for work lamps) but we never blew the 20 amp maxi fuses in the first place. The circuit breakers were ever the only things that would trip and reset when the complete load was taken off of them or reduced the load.

There has been an update in the newer models of M150 on the fuse/relay/circuit breaker panel compared to ours. The ones I listed and a "lighting direction relay" which isn't on ours.

We are able to swath at night by reducing the load on the circuit breakers. We are basically down to the cab forward lights(working lights facing forward) We shut off the rear(roading lights) and unplug the two lights on the cab corners shining to the ends of the header and remove the detachable radio front.

Anyone else having any issues and what solution did you find. Macdon Customer service hasn't been any help (by not returning email inquiries)

We clean this thing off that a mouse would starve if it had to live on it and put it in a shed(tractor portion) and put poison on it as well. There is no signs of chewing or smell of mice. I think it may be the load for the gauge of wire is too high. Nothing was added to it that would increase the load on the wiring. Does anyone know of an upgrade from Macdon? Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 18:40 2 Have u asked this in the combine forum here it might turn into a political ,religious or wheat board discussion.

Have you asked your friendly neighbour dealer for your territory reps phone number? Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 18:43 3 It wouldn't be hard to hook in a relay triggered by the light circuits but getting power direct from battery.

A little 2 wire 12 gage with relay plug.. 50 $ could get the source power changed over. 30 amp relays are cheap.... As are 30 amp breakers. Peavy Mart has good cheap wire... Get some loom and Cover and tuck in new power supply wires. Upgrade better than MacDon. Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 18:48 4 Sorry MC... Was writing on cell while you posted.
Hope I wasn't too political or religious talking about : relays, breakers, 2wire... Loom and Peavy Mart!!!
Cheers! Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 18:53 5 On new JD equip the Canbus makes us do these mods often... To not mess up ecm and computer. Amps are spec driven now.... If anything is unusual the ecm gets mad fast. Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 19:19 6 Yes Tom it was awful but but this time Ill let it slide. A good idea though whay about changing the lights out to LEDS less power draw and nicer light been going to do that on our m150, we got a new peavy mart. Going to be hard on the Poor Ol UFA. Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 19:23 7 mcfarms, I'm not a contributor to the combine forum and a lot would argue here either, lol.

Have you had this issue?

Sounds like a pricey conversion. Reply With Quote
Oct 4, 2015 | 19:30 8 I saw some newer style M155's and I think they still have the old style lights as well. Reply With Quote
fjlip's Avatar Oct 4, 2015 | 21:08 9 Ours is the first year, 2007, NO issues at all at 1100 header hours. Tell me it was hand assembled as a pre- production.
Heard of our electrical issues though. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 09:14 10 I have fought the same issue.

Here's the fix:
Take the cover off your fuse box beneath the right hand step platform.
Now go swath all night, problem free.
Yes, it will get covered in dust.

I have replaced all the relay/fuses with higher amperage ones and it makes no difference. (That was the official fix from Macdon) From what I hear I still don't think Macdon has truly fixed this problem. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 09:25 11 Jay-mo: I have a call into customer support/service and waiting for a return call.

It's just I don't want to pay a service department to "diagnose" a problem that has no fix without modification. I believe this is an engineering/manufacturing issue.

So you're saying not enough ventilation and have a heat buildup on components in the fuse compartment? Why only the lights though? There are other functions on circuit breakers. I can't imagine the amount of dirt that would build up on that fuse/relay/circuit breaker panel, mine is coated in dialectic grease!! Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 11:48 12 we have the same issue with our M155. the circuit breaker will trip intermittently and I will loose most of the lights. I have considered going to led lights in place, Im sure they draw less power. I have found that on cool nights the problem is less of a issue. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 17:29 13 It is definitely a design flaw in both electrical and in the physical location of the fuse panel.
If you put your hand on that cover after swathing for a few hours it is smoking hot. I think a lot of the heat is from external engine heat being directed at it. Not necessarily that the electrical system is really being overloaded.
I agree James, the cooler the night, the less issues with that relay breaker.
Yes, it gets covered in dust, but at least you can keep dropping canola when the pressure is on.
I haven't had any issues with it getting dusty and it doesn't get rained on where its located. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 17:32 14 Farmaholic, I am interested to hear what Macdon had to say to you about the problem. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 18:38 15 Someone has been in touch with me and has put in quite an effort but wouldn't admit to it being a "recurring" problem. Sad to hear the M155s may still have the issue. I'll post pictures of our fuse panel and the revised("C") panel of August 2010. Yours might be different. ...again. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 19:03 16 [URL=http://photobucket.com/]/URL]

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Notice the changes at F3, F4, F15, F16 and F18. At F21&22 where mine is spare they put in a "lighting direction relay". The wiring may even be different so...

I need to determine why ALL the lights go out when they trip-- when F15 only controls the engine forward(roading lights) and F16 controls the rest of the lights on the cab, the radio and interior dome light.

The light switch at "field" position turns all the lights on at a time, the "road position" turns off the cab forward lights(field working lights) and leaves the two back corner cab lights and the roading lights and the tail lights on.

I have to go back to the wiring schematic and try to figure out what is tripping both F15&16 to cause all the lights to go out at one time. Can't look at those things too long, get a headache, lol. We've never blown a fuse, always the circuit breakers trip. We had the machine running today with the lights on, but as james said probably too cool out to cause it to trip. I think it is a manufacturing/engineering error. LEDs would be nice but they aren't cheap either, I would be more than satisfied with the quality of the lighting if the damn things would stay on!!! Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 20:47 17 If what Jay-mo says is true, going to LED wouldn't help.

Interesting that the fuse panel is located in an area that gets overheated from the engine. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 20:48 18 Sounds like their electrical engineering department dropped the ball on this. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 21:33 19 I am far from an electrical engineer but I looked at the schematics tonight and there seems to far too much happening through the F16 position in the fuse panel. I can't safely put in a higher amperage circuit breaker without knowing if the wiring can handle it. Circuit breakers and relays are really mechanical devices, I am going to ask or research if they weaken over time, especially if they've been tripped numerous times.

I hate giving up. Reply With Quote
Oct 5, 2015 | 21:42 20 Jay-mo, is the face of your fuse panel covered in dielectric grease? Mine is.

As silly as this may sound, I wonder if that little compartment could be pressurized with air from the cab that has been A/C-ed, it would exhaust out the back where the wires come through the frame rail and probably out the sides were the cover meets the frame. Unless condensation issues would develop, that would cause a whole new set of problems. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 05:39 21 BTW,

My suggestion though radical removes the problem by requiring only miliamps... trigger amperage to relays is minuscule... from 15-20 amps. Plus the relay and breaker do not need to be in that fuse box where all the trouble is. put in a breaker/relay junction box like we use on highway equip. and make sure to put info into manual and factory fuse box to alert folks to mods.

We run both a 2008 M150 and 2012 W150 with NO problems... strange how these problems are specific to limited select units. JD in Camrose WOULD NOT sell me one of their W150 units... that would burn out the wiring harness... so it is unit specific not a problem on all MaDon units. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 07:44 22 Tom, I took not of your solution. The system has a series of fused and circuit breaker power sources that trigger relays to supply power to what is in their circuit. I honestly wouldn't know where to safely splice in.

This unit was bought brand new by us. We made absolutely no modifications. The problem may be unit(s) specific but there has to be a cause... and that is what I'm looking for. The fact that there were changes to the same model in subsequent years says they know there was an issue.

In today's day and age one would think the engineers would known the limitations of components, singularly and grouped, this isn't new technology and FAR from my strong point.

Thanks for the input though. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 07:59 23 If anyone is going past their swather could you please look inside the fuse box and see what size circuit breaker(mine are circuit breakers!) is at F15 and F16.

Thanks in advance. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 08:27 24 Farmaholic,

Pull power direct from the battery... no risk in your own breakered power supply... and trigger the field lights with present controls... but supply lights with you own circuit breakered new power source to run them. A simple fix... yet last resort for most.

The problem is in their MacDon wiring harness it seems... not breakers in their system. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 08:34 25 Are you saying the gauge of the wire may be a little light for the draw placed on it in some places.

I will be looking for components that have shared functions because all the lights go out and there is kind of two different circuits. Some shared components are actually the light switch itself but also some relays get tied together into the system. Maybe the coils in the relays cant be held closed anymore. Grasping at straws. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 08:54 26 Tom, F15 & F16 had 20 amp circuit breakers in them and the panel diagram inside the cover even has them listed. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 09:18 27 Ok.... found a loose ground under the roof panel accessible from righthand headliner panel that has radio in it and the A/C controls. The ground point is a stud right under the antenna mount....

Hope this does it. A loose ground is never a good thing.

Thanks for all the input. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 11:21 28 Farmaholic,

Hope that fixes it! Bad grounds are bad news!!! Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 12:43 29 The nut was so loose it could be turned off by hand. You could easily wiggle the eyelet on the stud. We wired brushed the surface, put on some dielectric grease and put it back on tightly. Reply With Quote
Oct 6, 2015 | 12:46 30 Forgot to say, this may not solve the whole problem but it likely wasnt helping matters either(AT ALL). Agree bad grounds can cause alot of issues. Hope this whole exercise maybe helps someone else... Reply With Quote