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Small Flock Egg Production

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    Small Flock Egg Production

    What are some of the things we should be aware of in raising laying hens? We have a small flock of 50 birds that have been laying for about 3 months(browns) and 5 months(whites). How many hours of light should they be getting per day? What kind of ration would be workable for us to make on a small scale? Should it be ground or fed whole? Should the two breeds be mixed? How much room do they need? Do you have a nesting box plan? Where do birds prefer to lay(in a dark box, in a corner, in open fronted boxes)? Any other information would be appreciated. Thanks

    #2
    There's loads of info out there on the internet on egg layers. Ag Canada has a fact sheet "Managing a Small Poultry Flock" which would be helpful. You can also go to the Library section of Agri-Ville and under Links you will find some good info.
    Layers flocks need a minimum of 14 hours light, but if the flock has been exposed to natural light you are looking at 17 hours. Never decrease the light period for layers.
    Complete rations should be fed to the lay flock. The hatchery you obtained your birds from should be able to provide you with the recommendations for the strain of bird you have. Along with the complete ration a container with oyster shells available will insure your birds are consuming enough calcium to maintain shell quality throughout the lay cycle.
    The two strains of layers can be mixed without too many problems. Insure you have lots of room for your birds(2 ft2/bird enclosed and 4-6 ft2/bird in a run). Brown egg strains will tend to be more agressive and if in too confined a space feather picking can occur.
    Birds prefer a place away from the flock to lay their eggs. This is why birds will readily lay in corners and under things. Nests should be away from the flock (off the floor) and dark and secluded to entice layer to lay their eggs there. Nests can be individual with anything from a box with bedding (wood boxes or old plastic milk cartons work great) to an enclosed nest. Community nests can also be used but egg breakage can be a problem. Insure the opening to the nest allows for ease of entry and exit for the layer.

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      #3
      Hi there! Haven't been to Agriville for a long time, but it's nice to talk with someone who is interested in the advantages and potential of a small flock.

      We've had layers for 5 years, and winter them in a barn heated with heat lamps. We build our nesting boxes out of OSB, 8 feet long, divided into 8 units that are 12"wide. The bottom is twice as wide as the top, to allow the hens a landing platform when they jump up. The units are positioned about 18" from the floor.

      We have mixed flocks in the past without problems, but enough space is definitely an important factor in avoiding cannibalism.

      Another vital factor is feed. We choose to mix our own grain ration to avoid feed with residues of hormones or antibiotics. Soy-based protein is added depending on the season. We use wood shavings for bedding because they are easier to compost and complement the alkaline soil at our farm. We also add to our feed ration in the winter to compensate for lack of sunshine and fresh grass.

      With our customized feeding program, we sell our eggs for premium prices from the farm gate and can't keep up with orders. People appreciate our ethical and humane aproach to raising layers, and we feel good each spring when we "liberate" birds raised in cages.

      Our older hens are retired around 18 months and live out their lives with our rooster Angus. Some hens are still in low production at age 5. We purchase ready-to-lay pullets every spring, according to our standing order requirements.

      If you'd like more information, our e-mail is SilverSpiritFarms@yahoo.com

      We'd love to hear from you.

      Happy Henning!

      Comment


        #4
        More small flock producers...how wonderful! We have some exotics but mostly browns.

        We had about 75 (browns) until recently. We have lost a few to old age. We have a heated hen house (meaning we keep it about 45F). Last year, we found the hens were going a little nutty with heat lamps. They never got true darkness at night. Our girls get about 16 to 17 hours of light daily (on a timer).

        The hens use a nesting box that is 12" square with a perch out front to land on. We like shavings in the boxes and a combination of straw and shavings on the floor. The hens like the straw. They like the close box, so, other hens cannot bug them.

        Ou feed ration currently uses a commercial egg maker with whole grains (wheat and oats) that we mix with it (and oyster shells). We need to set up a better watering system - currently using 6g fonts.

        Like space, feeding and water access can cause cannibalism problems. But like the others, we sell every egg that is laid.

        Although I got ready to lay hens this year, I may brood my own again next year. I was surprised, but the ready to lay girls had a harder time adjusting to the free range environment.

        We are on a regional water line. Does anyone know if clorinated water bothers hens? I haven't had any problems to date (that I know of) and the water test showed that the levels were within safety guidelines for animals - didn't specify what species.

        Comment


          #5
          Hi Jensco and everyone!

          We've had problems with an ermine, so we keep our heat lamps on 24/7 (some white, some red) and have a radio playing all the time. If our girls need darkness, they sleep inside the nesting boxes. So far their lay rate is holding despite colder weather and the ermine is keeping his distance.

          For water, we tried the metal fonts but they freeze in winter, even inside the barn. Now we use 2 1/2 gallon plastic pails and tie them with wire to a support so the hens can't tip them. When they freeze, gentle tapping releases the ice and we always add warm water.

          This past spring was the first year we bought ready-to-lay pullets, and they had a hard time adjusting to their freedom. When we found some of them sleeping out in the yard and vulnerable to owls, rather than in the barn, we recruited our rooster Angus to teach them the importance of sleeping indoors. Within two days, he had them all trained.

          Water is a concern for many. Even those on well water often have a brine-based softener and the salt can pose health problems for poultry. I'm not a big fan of chlorine or fluoride, so I count my blessings we're on untreated well water.

          If practical, I'd be inclined to run your water through a filter of some kind to get rid of the chlorine.

          Blessings of the season to all. )

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