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    #71
    Originally posted by Marusko View Post
    Spend a dollar to save a dime? Plus it's less than ideal to put the vapour barrier on the outside of the wall rather than the inside.... that leads to condensation issues in the walls. Won't be as bad since it's 3" thick spray foam though.
    I used a cellulose insulation made by Weathershield in the ceiling and walls. 10mil vapour barrier inside wall, metal clad outside and in. I can heat my 1500 SF windowless shop to about 10C in -25C weather with a 1500W electric space heater. Not that I do, only use a space heater, but the regulator for the propane tank froze so I had no floor heat for a few days, really like that insulation. Also cheaper and very fire retardant.

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      #72
      Originally posted by woodland View Post
      I’ve grown to despise those things. 😉

      Used to use them all winter and could wear out a set a year. We used to put 10-20 road miles a day on them. You get good at jacking wheels and welding to build them up after chores.

      Much cheaper and easier to run a bigger tractor with better tires and accept a few mishaps or smaller loads occasionally I find. Still have chains to fit every tractor on the place but no desire to use them.

      Hills make life fun out here😎
      I'm a big fan of tire chains. Some years have as many as 3 tractors with chains. Trucks while hauling manure or dirt, grain augers with movers, even the wheel rake gets a tire chains to keep it from sliding sideways.
      How did your covid experiment go? Every one recovered?

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        #73
        With the Addition, the shop now is 4500 Sq ft and still could be bigger. We use radiant heat plus have a blower for backup as one time we were gone for a week and the light went on the radiant the shop was cool when we got back but no water froze. Walls are packed with insulation in the old shop and the roof is blown in. The coolest place to be in summer. The new has the new foam insulation vapor plus we added R22 for sound and warmth and it's cheap.

        Build when you can in your farming carrier because you will never regret it the only thing you will regret is not going bigger at the beginning.

        Ours is 24 years old the main one.

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          #74
          Ok so my question to all you shop guys is this, put up a pole shed and then cement or pour the pad and build on the pad??? One company says build the pole shed and pour after. Thoughts are appreciated.

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            #75
            We hauled in 20 (19 yds) loads of fill
            Goodon built 48’x60’ x18’ pole shed shop totally finished with 26’ bifold in 4 days
            They left 16 ‘ overhead door and blown in insulation in attic for a local contractor , whom they paid
            Soon as that door was on we got floor poured
            Better this way cause you can control environment for drying cement
            We let cement go right to outside treated 2”x8” bottom strap (which also has a styrofoam strip on inside of strapping, and also pounded 6” spikes a couple inches into treated poles on three sides thinkin it would help keep poles and cement the same height ? Poles are in 5’ , she’s tough ground here
            Very happy with everything 4.5 yrs later

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              #76
              Thanks for that info Case. Good to hear that your shop went as planned and is working out. How thick is your cement? 6” so you can drive on it?

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                #77
                Click image for larger version

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                Worked out 5.5” of the highest psi cement
                24” under doors , rebar every sq ft
                More under doors
                Only cracks are where saw cuts end at walls
                Very nice job

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                  #78
                  Any snow like that in Jamaica Robert ?

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                    #79
                    Not yet ! Waiting for climate change ! Lol. it’s been good . It’s like Groundhog Day here always nice every fricken day !

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                      #80

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